Dubrovnik is a place of dreams; a walled city nestled against rocky cliffs that kisses the Adriatic sea and beckons vistors with a romantic charm.
 |  | | Dubrovnik's old town lies behind the protective arms of its great wall | |
DUBROVNIK, Croatia - Sipping coffee on 'Stari Grand,' the main square in the old town, it's hard to believe that only a few years ago this quaint, picturesque spot was the scene of shelling and destruction.
I can still recall vivid images of the bloody civil war that ravaged Dubrovnik, and most of Croatia, in 1991 and 1992, flashing across my television screen. Today, in the shadow of a sea of roofs that fade into a pastel patchwork under the morning sun, it takes effort to conjure up images of war. The burning buildings and rubble-filled streets have been replaced by a quiet elegance that echoes through the stone walls surrounding the city. It is a magical place where time seems to stand still.
"A mortar shell fell on this very spot," comments the waiter as he brings a second cup of coffee. "I thought my life was over and the city would never be the same. But now, I think, it is better than ever."
International aid along with a lot of hard work has, indeed, made not just Dubrovnik, but all of the major areas of Croatia, 'better than ever.' In my travels from the capitol of Zagreb in the north to the southern most city of Dubrovnik, I found little evidence of the extensive shelling by the Serb-backed Yugoslav National Army back in the early 1990s.
More than 575 buildings in Dubrovnik were hit and most were destroyed. Standing on the wall that circles this jewel on the Adriatic like the great arms of a comforting protector, one can easily pick out the old from the new. Although reconstruction was carefully carried out so the new buildings match the old in in materials and workmanship, what is above and below me betray the secret.
Bright red roof tiles stand in marked contrast to the ocher-colored tiles of the older buildings. On the ground, many of the limestone squares, which glisten like polished marble from the wear of pedestrians, are a telltale white. The careful observer can also find bullet holes which pock-mark many of the buildings.
Despite these subtle signs of conflict, Croatia is once again a beacon for visitors and clearly open for tourism. The tragedy of war has not diminished this country's many charms. From Roman ruins in Split and the cobbled streets of Rovinj to the quaint harbor of Hvar and Dubrovnik's great wall, Croatia is a sparkling gem for visitors.
More than 4.5 million people live in Croatia, a horseshoe-shaped country in southeastern Europe that includes a narrow strip of coastline stretching more than 1,000 miles and a larger inland section which includes the capitol of Zagreb.
Located just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy and nestled between Slovenia and Hungary to the North and Bosnia/Herzegovina and Yugoslavia to the south and east, Croatia is a paradise for sailors, divers and anyone who loves the water. It's natural harbors, countless bays, beaches, ports and marinas offers a relaxing and inviting environment that is like no other in Europe.
Although tourism is still not as strong as the pre-war level of more than 52-million visitors, it is definitely on the rebound.
ZAGREB AND BEYOND
My visit to Croatia started in Zagreb which is the main entry point from most European cities. I arrived after a pleasant flight from Paris on Croatian Airlines which flies from most major European cities (Rome, London, Paris, Madrid, Frankfurt, Zurich, etc.).
Established as the capitol in 1557, Zagreb is situated on the slopes of Medvednica Mountain and along the banks of the Sava river. Zagreb still retains some of its medieval charm, despite years of uncontrolled growth and the construction of gray, non-descript buildings during Communist rule.
Zagreb was hit hard with shells and rockets in the early 1990s, but the damage was surprisingly light and city fathers lost no time in rebuilding it.
If you can look past the stark, cold war atmosphere of many of the buildings, there are some real jewels of architecture and history. Most of them are in the old town section of Zagreb.
One such example is the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (formerly St. Stephen's Cathedral). Its twin neo-Gothic spires built in 1899 are easy to spot. Look closely and you can still see elements of the medieval cathedral that was once on this very site. The 13th century frescos, Renaissance pews, marble altars, and the stunning baroque pulpit are truly spectacular.
Just north-west of the city center, is the equally impressive St Mark's Church - a huge structure topped by a colorful painted-tile roof and know for sculptures by Ivan Mestrovic.
If its museums you crave, you will not go wanting in Zagreb. Not far from St. Mark's is the Natural History Museum, the Historical Museum of Croatia, and the City Museum, which was once a convent. Walk a little further and you can see the the Archaeological Museum with exhibitions of prehistoric and medieval artifacts, Egyptian mummies, and a Roman sculpture garden. The Museum Mimara claims one of the finest art galleries in Europe. Housed in a neo-Renaissance building, the gallery features Spanish, Italian and Dutch paintings along with displays of glassware, sculpture and Oriental art.
After a day or two of site-seeing in Zagreb, I headed for Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is about a two hour bus ride from the city.
Entered into the UNESCO Register of World Natural Heritage locations, Plitvice Lakes is a region of 16 interconnected lakes dotted with waterfalls etched into travertine (a type of limestone) rocks and cliffs over thousands of years. Dense forests of fir and spruce trees create a pristine, virgin forest dotted with caves, and flower laden meadows. It's a great place to revitalize your spirits and shake off the stark, gray atmosphere of the capitol.
From here, it was off to the coast and the region know as Dalmacija. After an overnight stay at the Hotel Dalmacija in the town of Makarska, I boarded a catamaran on the journey to Dubrovnik. The first stop was the town of Hvar on the island of the same name.
By the way, there seems to be no truth to the belief by some that Dalmacija was the birthplace of the Dalmatian breed of dog. Also, the catamaran I sailed on was not the small sailing vessel most think of when they hear the name. This boat was nearly as long as a football field and accommodated several hundred passengers.
 | | | Narrow streets are nestled within the wall that encircles Dubrovnik's old town | |
Hvar encircles a wonderful harbor dotted with yachts that sits in the shadow of 15th and 16th century buildings. Directly above our mooring are the remains of the former Governor's Palace. Completed in the 14th century, it is dominated by a central clock tower framed by four lookout towers. The building was destroyed in raids by the Turks in 1571, then rebuilt in Renaissance style in the early 17th century under the direction of mason master Trifun Bokanic. Today, the neo-Renaissance style interior serves as a reception hall and exhibition room for the hotel "Palace."
A bit higher, perched on the rocky cliffs like a medieval gargoyle standing watch over the quaint harbor, sits the town citadel. Destroyed by a gun powder explosion in the 16th century and later restored, it served as a lookout post and first line of defense during both French and Austrian rule. Today, the fortress has been reconstructed as a modern tourist complex. It's most potent weapon is a commanding view of the harbor and the surrounding landscape.
After about two hours in town and a quick lunch, I once again boarded the catamaran. We made a brief stop in KORCULA and finally arrived in Dubrovnik around 8:00 at night. Although it was dark, I knew the minute I arrive in this historic city that it was a special place.
DUBROVNIK
My accommodations at the Hotel Excelsior in Dubrovnik were excellent. This five star resort is right on the water and only a few minutes from old town. Besides an excellent view of the city and the Adriatic Sea, it offers several good restaurants with reasonable prices, a fitness room, and, best of all, a wonderful spa. The first hotel on this spot, called Hotel Odak, was opened in 1913. It was redesigned and renamed Excelsior in 1965 and then completely renovated in 1998. Today, it offers the conveniences of a modern hotel while still maintaining an old world charm.
After a quick dinner, I wasted no time and headed for the gates of old town, an easy 15 minute walk from the hotel. The wonderful sea views during the day, and the dramatic lighting effects on the city wall at night, make it a great place for walking at any time. Arriving in the main square (Stari Grand) is like walking into a shinning fairyland. The limestone-paved square sparkles under the lights like an ancient jewel carefully handed down from generation-to-generation.
Although never captured, Dubrovnik was a major target of Serbian forces in the war that broke out in 1991 when Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia. While independence was the rallying point, the fighting, which claimed the lives of more than 200,000 people, was actually rooted in more fundamental differences. Decades of conflict over economic, political, religious, and ethnic issues were the spark that ignited the bloody clash.
Fighting is no stranger to this city. The Romans were the first to invade in 229 B.C.E. After the fall of Rome in the 5th century, Slavic tribes moved in from present-day Poland. Then, in 1242, a Tartar invasion devastated most of Croatia.
 | | | Dubrovnik's great wall offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside | |
In the 15th century, Venice took most of the Dalmatian coast and held the region until the end of the 17th century when it was made a part of the Illyrian provinces by Napoleon. It became a part of Yugoslavia after the Austro-Hungarian empire was defeated in World War I, invaded by Germany and controlled by the Nazis in 1941, and ruled by the Communists after World War II.
Through it all, the massive walls, which are more than 80 feet high in spots, have stood in silent tribute to the will and determination of its citizens. This determination, coupled with its location along the Adriatic, has provided Dubrovnik with a constant stream of wealth along with a climate and picturesque setting that for centuries has made it a favorite vacation spot for Europeans.
Built into the surrounding mountain and facing the sea, Dubrovnik is one of the most romantic of towns. It's no wonder that it has been declared a cultural monument and placed under UNESCOs special protection.
STROLLING THE WALL
When you visit, be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes since you will want to muster all your energy and stroll along the city wall that surrounds the old part of the city. It costs 10 Kuna (about $1.65) to ascend the narrow stairway to the top of the wall.
It's only a little more than a mile around, but with the many stairs and changing elevation, walking the citadel seems much longer. Many of the homes and business are reachable only via the wall and it seems that at every turn there are new discoveries to be made. It is definitely worth the effort.
Besides the wonderful view and the sense of history that seems to permeate the very air, you will find several churches, small restaurants and great view points from battlements and towers within the wall. The wall is also the best place to get a glimpse of Lokrum Island, which lies just offshore and only about 15 minutes away by ferry.
Built in 1317, the Franciscan monastery is well worth the 5 kuna (about $0.80) entry fee. Aged stone archways stand guard over a wide courtyard at the entrance to a museum, which contains a treasure trove of ornate gold and silver cases for holy relics from saints. The museum also houses one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. On display are antique books containing folk remedies and descriptions of medicinal plants and apothecary bottles dating from the 16th century.
A few minutes away is the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Built in 1877, it's considered the new kid on the block by Dubrovnik standards. The sun-drenched courtyard of this imposing, yet delightful, church will appeal to cat lovers. Dozens of cats can always be found waiting for local residents to bring a tasty morsel of food or pause to pet or play with them. The dark and mystical interior of the cathedral, which is trimmed in gray and rose colored stones, is in stark contrast to the bright and inviting courtyard.
While I enjoyed visiting the local museums and churches, I found the best part of Dubrovnik was just enjoying Dubrovnik itself. Sitting in an outdoor cafe, sipping coffee or tea, watching the passing parade of visitors and locals, and soaking up the unique atmosphere of this wonderful city made my visit truly memorable.
About the only mistake I made on this trip was not spending more time here. Dubrovnik's uniqueness resonates, not from Renaissance art or imposing architecture, but from a simple elegance enhanced by age and nurtured under the shadow of its protective wall.
Click here to go the "Feature Locations" section for more news
|
