Seeing this magnificent valley for the first time is an unforgettable experience. As I enter the park, the noble granite facade of El Capitan soars above to one side, princely Bridalveil Falls roars on the other and majestic Half Dome, clad in winter's ermine cloak, shines in the distance.

It's a special time in an incredible place. It's winter in Yosemite.

Naturalist and Sierra Club founder, John Muir called Yosemite "a landscape...that after all my wanderings still appears as the most beautiful I have ever beheld."

Earthquakes, glaciers and the ravages of winter's fury over millions of years has left indelible footprints on the landscape that are clearly visible in the towering granite cliffs, the thundering waterfalls, the steep mountains and the deep alpine lakes. It's no wonder that this is a favorite place for photographers, naturalists and those who just want to escape the madness of modern life.

In 1890, the U.S. Congress named Yosemite National Park and as a protected preserve and dedicated it's 1,170 square mile area as a true wilderness for all who visit to enjoy.

NOSTALGIA TOUR

I first visited the Yosemite Valley in the winter of 1969. While I have been back many times in my memory, it had been several years since I took the time to actually go there. It was my son, Paul, who reminded me of what I've been missing. He had just returned from a camping trip to Yosemite to get some photos while winter's icy hand was still in evidence. Seeing the photos brought back images of the beauty of this unique place and had me packing my bags in short order.

The Yosemite Valley has been a favorite place of mine over the 30 years that have pasted since my first magical visit. I have go through a lot of changes in that time, but Yosemite is eternal. It has remained largely faithful to my precious memories.

The most obvious change is not in the natural wonders, but in the manmade accommodations, which have become increasingly more crowded. In summer, it can be almost impossible to find a place to stay inside the park.

Getting to this wonderland is a bit more difficult in winter but worth the trouble. Lower temperatures means ice covered roads and the challenges of driving in snow and rain. Driving from Los Angeles, it I about six hours to make it to the south entrance of the park on California highway 41.

The weather was cold and uninviting, so we pushed on to our destination instead of making our customary stop at Mariposa Grove. In the summer, this is a great place to stop and stretch your legs. Here you will find the largest stand of giant sequoias in Yosemite and the Grizzly Giant. At 2,700 years, it's the oldest living sequoia in this or any part of the world.

TRAFFIC TROUBLE

After entering the park (there is a National Park entry fee of $20 per vehicle which is good for seven days) we began our trek to Yosemite Valley which. It's not far (only 35 miles), but even on light traffic days, it's a slow drive, thanks to slower vehicles and drivers who want to take in the scenery.

Slow or not, the drive is spectacular. Traveling north, we pass through a mile-long tunnel before emerging to a breathtaking view like nothing else on earth. More than 600 feet above is Bridalveil Falls looming over Badger Pass. Know as Tunnel View, this is one of the most amazing natural sites in the world.

Continuing along the Southside Drive of the valley, we pass Swinging Bridge, a must stop location where you will find a wonderful view to the south of the Merced River. A bit further ahead, the monumental granite spiral facade of El Capitan towers more than 7,000 feet above.

Spectacular scenery like El Capitan, Half Dome and Yosemite Falls are sites that have been burned into America's collective conscience through the haunting black and white images of Ansel Adams. Seeing these same scenes for the first time in color is an experience not to be missed.

Although Yosemite is open year-round, a number of areas, including, Glacier Point and Tioga Pass, are closed from the first snowfall (usually in October or early November) through June. The good news is that you won't have to worry about the traffic jams that are common during the height of the summer season.

HOME, SWEET, HOME

After a short sightseeing tour of the valley, we checked into our hotel, The Wawona Hotel, American Indian for "big trees," is a cluster of eight, white wooden New England-style buildings set on a broad green lawn. It was on this site, which the local Miwok Indians called "Pallachun" or "a good place to stop," that Yosemite's original superintendent and guardian, Galen Clark, built his lodge in 1856.

Located just seven miles from the south entrance of the park, it lays cradled between the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and the Yosemite Valley. Rates range from $96 to $158.

Before we turn in for the night, we step outside and look up. There is no greater place on earth to see t

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